Tuesday, 1.04.03
Had to stand up early in the morning to drive to Frankfurt Hahn. I was a bit concerned because of the heavy backpack and the burner bit from my Trangia cooker in my luggage, but everything went fine.
From Glasgow Prestwick directly to Glasgow to the huge outdoor centre (Tiso) close to Queens Street Station. It was amazing! The Scots are so friendly. This salesman took about 1 hour to help me plan my trip (he'd been to most of the places) and gave me great tips. We were just sitting in front of the maps and discussing which would be the best way to take.
18:20 My train leaves to Bridge of Orchy
20:40 It's dark, raining and it's cold! Great start!! Never mind
It took me quite some effort (and a lot of nerves) to put up my tent. But after that a nice cool pint of lager was waiting for me at the bar of the Bridge of Orchy Hotel ;-)

Wednesday, 2.04.03
Woke up late after a rainy night and cold feet. Next night I will wear socks!
Took me even longer to get everything back into my bag and to get my tent ready for transport. Great weather. A bit windy but the sun is shining. Off we go!!
Left the West Highland Way at Victoria Bridge and walked along the footpath to Loch Etive.... Damn... must be more than 30 kg in my bag now, with the 2l of water, the meths and the additional food I bought in Glasgow. But the Gregory Shasta is doing well so far.
Great time walking here. Absolutely beautiful. The only real problem today was a river crossing for Land rovers... just too deep to walk through it. Found a wee bridge just another km further up the river...
Strange shelter hut here at Loch Dochard. Looks a bit like a stable... just way too small.
Went off the track in northern direction. Quite boggy here, had to take a lot of care where to put my steps.
Well... 14:30 and I found the perfect spot to put up my tent. Plan to go over the pass through Meall Odhar and Meall Nan Ean to reach Glen Etive tomorrow. Hope the weather will be fine tomorrow. The pass is only 633 meters high, but still a risky thing in bad weather conditions.
For the rest of the day I will just sit in the sun, eat and relax ;-)
Hmmm... the Voltaren cream works wonders on my hips and shoulders. Just my feet are still bitter cold because I had to cross a small river barefoot.
19:00 Just noticed, how important it is to eat properly in the evenings. Got really cold, blue fingers and toes. Than I ate a Pasta Snack and some cheese, drank some tea and it got better almost immediately. Wind's getting stronger. Rain as well.

Thursday, 3.04.03
Tough day. Due to the good weather I decided to go over the mountains as planned. Very hard. Sometimes I got stuck with my feet in the mud and almost sank into it up to my knees. The ascent was very exhausting. Used a hell lot of water and had to rest ever so often. One could say that by now I give the word "to stink" a whole new dimension. but who cares?!
Over the mountains in Glen Etive I started to look out for a good place to camp. The last half hour my left leg started to cramp. Didn't have enough rests in the last 2 hours. Stupid! That's also the reason why I had to choose this crappy campsite for my tent. just couldn't walk any further. I fear that this straw like sh** here will pierce the bottom of my tent. Can't change it now... My legs need sleep badly. Now I know why people don't go mountain hiking with 30 kg. The ground is not only covered by those straw-like plants but also totally uneven. Calls for a backache tomorrow. This really sucks!! Especially that I might ruin the tent. Feet are swollen and the hips I don't even look at.
There's deer all around me and on of them is "barking". Never heard deer bark before... A ranger came down here and told me that I was not allowed to camp here, but after telling him that I could not possibly walk any further he had mercy and told me I have to be gone by tomorrow midday. Great people the Scotsman!!

Friday, 4.04.03
Seems like the tent is fine. Finally managed to send of an SMS to Flo that I'm still alive. Told him that I will send him an SMS every second day that I'm still ok.
The way over Lairig Gartain to Glen Coe was brutal. Pretty dangerous at some places. It was steep, it was cold and lot's of bits from the original track were just gone or covered with slippery weed. Especially with the rucksack on my back it was much more of a risk I would have been willing to take, had I only known. Some low level climbing as well. An hour full of adrenaline. The rest of the way was not necessarily easier because of the wet ground and the uncountable little streams. Sometimes I had to jump (and sometimes I missed!), sometimes I had to walk a great deal around to get over those "swamp pits". I decided to walk an hour in the "wrong" direction to stay the night at the campsite behind Kingshouse Hotel.

And now (YEAH!) I'm having a proper meal and tonight I'll definitely have a pint! The weather got really sunny so I used the time to dry my clothes. The little toes on both feet are totally red and swollen. Can barely walk. If it's not better by tomorrow I'll have to stay here for another day. Had to fight cramps again today. Maybe it would be for the best to take a day off from hiking.

Saturday, 5.04.03
Very cloudy. My feet are no way near being able to go hiking without the risk of my toes peeling themselves completely. Will spend the day here at Kingshouse.
Beautiful day... the sun came out and I had a great view over Glen Coe (and a great time reading and laying in the sun). Can you wish for more?
Damn... just stepped on my glasses. Broken!

Sunday, 6.04.03
Started early in the morning. Everything fine until the Devil's Staircase. Not long... but steep! Can't believe how much a single person can sweat. I must have drained my body from every drop of water it had.
Shortly after the Staircase I took a shortcut straight north and followed the land rover track to the dam of the Blackwater Reservoir. Finally there I noticed that one is not allowed to cross the dam, so I had to fight my way through a mix of trees, bushes and small streams at the foot of the dam. I also kept walking at a good pace because the structure of the dam didn't make a good impression on me with all those cracks where the water was pressing through.
Safe and sound on the other side I kind of lost my way in the moor because I missed a turning of the track. Good luck to those who go there without map or compass.
Anyway, found my way back and eventually arrive at the bothy at Loch Chiarain after walking a long time trough square kilometres of burned ground. Unbelievable how vast the burned area was. Wonder what caused this fire.

The bothy is great! Pure luxury. Even a second floor and a chimney to make fire in (if you have wood, which I didn't). Tried the Erbseneintopf from Trekking-Mahlzeiten. I think I have never eaten such a good meal (after 9 hours of walking no wonder). Weather was great. Managed to let the sun dry my tent and sit at the bothy relaxing and enjoying the loch and the mountains at the same time... What a great guy I am!!

Monday, 7.04.03
Started at 7 in the morning because I wanted to get the train from Corrour Station around 12. Uneasy walking. No rests. Again a beautiful and absolutely remote part of the Highlands.
Lost my beloved gloves.
Breakfast at Corrour Station and then straight to Fort William and from there to Aberdeen to Camphill Community to spend the last few days there relaxing.

All in all a great trip. Got quite a sun taint as well ;-)